Care and Feeding of: Leather

Please note, however, that the methods and materials described below are only for vegetable or chrome tanned leathers with a grain surface, and in undeteriorated condition. As a rule of thumb, if it is fuzzy on both sides (i.e. a suede, or an oil tanned leather), an older piece, or may have been tanned using traditional Native methods (brain tanning, smoke tanning), then this article will not help you.

Because adding water to dirt gives mud, it is important to first remove any loose dirt from your leather before introducing any moisture. This dry-cleaning can be done simply by brushing the surface with a soft brush to loosen the dirt, and vacuuming the dirt away. Use a J-Cloth, cheesecloth, or a piece of screen over the vacuum nozzle to prevent the leather itself being vacuumed up.

Fans of "spit and polish" will be happy to note that saliva is an excellent means of cleaning vegetable and chrome tanned leathers, due to the enzymes found in saliva.

Other, more traditional forms of wet cleaner (solvents, water, detergents, soaps) can easily result in more harm than good, causing staining, cracking, and embrittlement. Rather than risk damaging your leather, it may be wise to call in a professional (either a cleaner who specializes in leather, or a conservator) if there are stains or the item requires more than just a dry-brush and/or a good tonguing.

Once considered the "cure-all" for leather, saddle soap was originally formulated for the lubrication of leather during the tanning process. It is, however, no longer recommended for use on leather for two reasons: it is not really a cleaner (the "soap" is really just an emulsifying agent, to carry the oil into the leather), and also because it is extremely alkaline — a condition that readily damages leather.

Over-oiling or lubricating your leather can actually cause your leather to become hard and brittle — the very conditions you are trying to treat! Excess oils and fats can react with the environment and oxidize. To help prevent this, keep your leathers out of the light, away from sources of heat, and use lubricants and dressings sparingly. Also note that oils and fats make leather much more attractive to both insects and mould — Yuck!

Dressings cannot bring dry, cracked leather back to "like new". The best use of dressings is to apply them very sparingly as a preventive measure; physical manipulation will also help keep leather both supple and strong.

Essentially, there are two types of leather dressings: those made from fats in solvents, and those made from fats in an emulsion. If your leather is not deteriorating, then the latter are much better to use, because they introduce moisture, which is really the source of flexibility in leather, and also have better penetration than solvent-based dressings. Water-based dressings include Pliancreme, Lexol, and Bavon ASAK 520S; those based on solvents include British Museum Leather Dressing, Pliantine, and Ceresin Leather Dressing.

Some dressings contain waxes, to give a polish to the treated leather. Beware, however, of waxes with relatively low melting points (i.e. beeswax), as body heat or air temperatures can cause stickiness, which traps dirt and dust on the surface. British Museum Leather Dressing contains beeswax, while Ceresin Leather Dressing contains ceresin wax, which has a higher melting point than beeswax, and so tends not to get as tacky.

Some conservators choose to make their own leather dressing. The following recipe is the Library of Congress Lubricant:

• Mix 60ml (2 liquid oz./4 tbsps) of Cold Tested Neatsfoot oil (neatsfoot oil that has been cooled, and has had fatty acids removed; this reduces the possibility of an oil bloom or spew occurring on the surface of your leather) with 40ml (1-1/3 liquid oz./2-2/3 tbsps) of lanolin together. (You can use any other 60/40 ratio, to make more or less dressing).

• To make a solvent based dressing, take 10ml (just under a tablespoon) of the lanolin/neatsfoot mixture, and mix it in enough mineral spirits to make 100ml (3-1/5 liquid oz.). This is a 10% solution.

• To make an emulsion based dressing, take 10ml of the lanolin/neatsfoot mixture, and mix it in enough distilled water to make 100ml; then add about 6g (a slightly rounded teaspoon) of Orvus/WA Paste to the mixture. This paste is an emulsifying agent sold as a soap through, for example, veterinary supply stores, farm supply, etc.

• When applying any dressing, it is best to apply it to the flesh side (the fuzzy side) only if possible, which improves penetration. Relaxing prior to dressing by covering the leather with damp towels has a similar effect.

• Dressing should be applied sparingly, on one small section of leather at a time, and rubbed into the leather using your fingers (don't forget to wash your hands, first!). Try to avoid getting lubricant on metal fittings, especially brass or other copper containing metals, as the dressing can encourage corrosion. Finally, rub the leather with a clean dry coth to remove any excess dressing.

• Enjoy!

The author has made every attempt to provide current, accurate information but does not assume any responsibility for adverse health effects or object degradation resulting from the use of any of the procedures presented here. When in doubt, consult a trained conservator.

Digger is an historical archaeologist, currently studying artifact conservation. In the spirit of applied learning, she entertains herself by applying museum-approved treatments to kink-related objects. Digger is also the proprietor of Digger's Emporium.