Singletail Tutorial, Part I

In this segment, we’ll learn a little bit about Al and how his interest in the singletail began, and we’ll learn about the basics of whip construction. Al will also tell you what you need to know when shopping for a whip.

If you’re interested in learning the singletail, you might want to acquire one soon, because the next installment in this series will begin a progressive tutorial in the specific skills necessary to successfully throw the whip.

In your exposure to the world of S/M and its imagery, both present and historical, you will sooner of later run into the single tail whip. By single tail, I mean whips with a single braided thong, as opposed to multiple thongs. I certainly was aware of them for quiet a while, but it took some time before I started serious play with them.

How I Started Throwing Single Tails

My interests in S/M started in college in the mid to late 70's. At that time I was primarily reading and researching, as the community was not as well developed or as wide spread as it is today. Certainly sources of information like the this magazine were not in existence. While living in New York City through the 80's, I developed my interests further, meeting individuals who became my mentors. I was interested in exploring and refining techniques in various aspects of S/M, including bondage, flogging, and various other areas.

Only in the past 5 years have I used single tail whips. It was not from lack of interest, but difficulty in finding the time and the proper information to learn how to use them. I got hooked when I was first taught a basic throw, and learned how to crack the whip for the first time without it flying back into my face. From there, I started experimenting with it, learning to throw the whip to a specific spot, and being able to predict where the whip will travel once thrown.

I was flattered to be asked by Slakker to write this article and I hope it will provide you with a basic, albeit opinionated introduction to single tail whips.

The Component Parts

There is some basic technical information that you should be familiar with before acquiring or handling your first single tail whip. The whip is divided up into various parts that you should be aware of. You will encounter some variations, however the components listed below are necessary for a whip to work safely and properly.

The whip is held at the handle, which is usually made of wood and either left bare or covered in braided leather. You will find some handles that swivel as well. I have personally found them harder to control, although anything is possible with practice. Swivel handles are really a matter of personal preference. At the end of the handle, the braided body of the whip (i.e., "the whip part") is the thong. The thong is sometimes connected to the handle with a knuckle that also swivels or is hinged. Again, the decision between a whip with a knuckle and one without is all a matter of personal taste. I use whips that do not have a knuckle or break between the handle and the thong. At the end of the thong a solid strip of leather about 6"-12" in length, depending on the whip. This is referred to as the fall, on the end of which is a piece of string, nylon or sometimes horsehair, with a small knot and a frayed end. This is referred to as the popper or sometimes the cracker. The popper does wear down in time and must be replaced occasionally. All single tail whips have these components is one form or another. Remember these terms, as I will refer to them later while discussing the actual throwing of the whip.

Types of Whips

Basically there are three types of single tail whips:

Bullwhip

These are the classic whips seen everywhere. They generally are around 6'-12' in length, with a rigid handle usually made out of wood that is either left wooden or covered with leather. Some bullwhips have knuckles or hinges between the handle or thong, depending on the style and the owner’s or maker’s choice.

Signal Whips

These are shorter than bullwhips, made in lengths of 3'-4'. They were originally designed to signal dog sled teams — by cracking the whip on one side or the other, the driver can steer the team. They differ from bullwhips in that they do not have a rigid handle but instead are formed with lead shot. The handle flows smoothly and continuously to the thong and they do not have a knuckle. They also will have a combined fall and popper. The fall is made of braided string or nylon, ending with a knot and frayed end like the popper on the bullwhip. When the popper wears down, the fall and the popper are both replaced.

Snakes

These are non-rigid handled bullwhips. They run in a variety of lengths from 6' on. The handle is flexible, often filled with lead shot, and is continuous with the braiding on the thong. The end of the whip does contain a fall and popper as does the bullwhip.

Respect Your Whip!

When first starting out with any whip, let alone a single tail, there is a learning curve. With single tail whips, I have found it to be a steeper one than most. I cannot stress the safety precautions necessary when it comes to handling these whips too much, so please bear with me if I seem to get excessive with the safety issues. Single tail whips can easily break skin, and can cause severe damage if not handled properly. In addition to surface damage, internal damage can also result from a misplaced whip. And that damage can be to either the bottom or the Top. I will discuss the physics of a whip when we start throwing, but for now understand that a whip follows the principle of action and reaction. A whip, when thrown, will return to the same place from which it came.

Also understand that whips were created not to hit hard surfaces, but rather to create the sound of a cracking whip. A whip being cracked travels at a rate starting around 750 m.p.h. and it does not like being stopped by a solid object.

For all these reasons, it is important to learn how to throw a whip properly before attempting to use it on your partner. Once we start discussing throws I will try to make other safety suggestions as they occur.

Acquiring Your First Whip

Where do you find your first whip? They are growing in popularity and can be found in many leather shops and even online. I do warn you, like all good things, a good single tail whip can cost you. Whips are handmade and are priced accordingly. Figure a signal whip to run around $150, and a basic 6' bullwhip to run around $250-$350; snakes run about the same, maybe slightly higher. Do not be surprised to see $500+ price tags on some bullwhips. They are probably extremely well made, using superior materials.

You will hear the term plaiting used referring to the quality of a whip. This refers to the number of leather strands braided to form the thong. Most good quality whips are made with 12 or 16 plait braids. A 12 plait uses leather around 1/8 " wide in the braid, 16 plait uses leather around 1/16" wide. There are also 8 plait braids around that are of good quality.

When shopping for a whip, see how it handles, how it feels in your hand, assessing balance as well as weight. Some whips are fairly light weight, some weight a ton!

My first whip was a signal whip, both for economic reasons and because it has lower space requirements. I recommend you do the same. You can practice with a 3' signal whip in an apartment, but bullwhips require lots of room. After learning how to use the signal properly, I made my second purchase. To date, I own three whips. Unless you are a collector, you need not own more.

Up till recently, David Morgan was one of the most accessible sources for whips. However, in recent years, other makers have been coming into the scene. Best places to start looking are at leather community events where vendors from around the country are in one location. Even if you do not make a purchase at that time, you’ll have a chance to see the range of what is available. Take business cards and make notes until you are ready to buy.

About the Author

Working on the technical side of the entertainment industry, Master Al travels extensively around the country. He currently lives in Los Angeles after having spent 20 years on the East Coast.

Best described as a hobbyist, he has been involved in BDSM for 18 years in New York City as well as Los Angeles. In addition to exploring with other like minded individuals, he equally enjoys communication and the sharing of ideas in matters of BDSM.